Creating Theatrical Millinery for the Stage

alisonturton
Mar 23
5 min read

What Does a Theatrical Milliner Actually Do? Go behind the scenes to find out more about this unique profession.

When you think of a theatrical production, the first things that might come to mind are the actors, the script, and the set design. However, there’s one key aspect of theatre that often goes unnoticed, despite playing a critical role in defining the story: the hats. Yes, those carefully crafted headpieces that complete a character’s look, add dimension to the storytelling, and transport audiences into the world of the play. And at the heart of it all? The theatrical milliner.

But what exactly does a theatrical milliner do? What is their role in the magic of theatre? In this blog I will explain my work and the processes behind creating hats and headpieces for the theatre, opera and ballet from my twenty nine year career.

Various theatrical millinery created by myself

The Role of a Theatrical Milliner

A theatrical milliner is a specialized craftsperson who creates hats and headpieces for theatrical performances. While the term "milliner" traditionally refers to someone who designs and makes women's hats for everyday fashion, a theatrical milliner focuses specifically on headpieces that are integral to character development, narrative enhancement, and the overall aesthetic of a production.

In the world of theatre, hats are not just accessories. They are essential tools used to communicate a character's personality, social status, time period, or even state of mind. Costume designers use their skills to enhance the emotional and visual impact of a play, often designing hats that reflect the play’s themes, setting or the specific needs of a character.

Key Responsibilities of a Theatrical Milliner

The work of a theatrical milliner goes far beyond just "making hats." I have to work alongside designers, supervisors, costume makers, directors, lighting and sound departments and probably most important - the actors.

1. Collaborating with Costume Designers

I work very closely with the costume designer and costume supervisor to understand the look and feel of the show. A costume designer might draw beautiful illustrations, put together a mood board, create some rough sketches or collect magazine clippings all to contribute to the overall look of the hats and costumes. We will talk everything through, discussing methods of creating the hat or headpiece, what fabrics will be suitable, what the actor will be doing on stage (for example will the hat be put on whilst onstage?) and how to achieve the design as accurately as possible.

2. Researching Historical and Cultural Accuracy

For period pieces, historical accuracy is important. A costume designer often spends time researching the era in which the play takes place. This includes studying fashion trends, hat shapes, materials, and construction techniques from the relevant period. Whether it's a Victorian bonnet, a 1920s cloche, or a medieval crown, the costume designer must get the details right to help immerse the audience into a different time period.

In productions set in different cultures or fantastical worlds, the costume designer also draws on cultural references or imagination to design headpieces that reflect those settings.

3. Creating Custom Hats and Headpieces

Unlike hats designed for fashion, hats in theatre often have to be highly customized to fit a specific need. I create each piece by hand, using specialized techniques such as:

Blocking: This is the process of shaping felt, straw, sinamay, buckram, leather or thermoplastics over a mold (or “block”) to form the desired hat shape.
Flat patterns: Some hats require a flat pattern to be drafted then sewn or glued into a 3D shape.
Stitching: Hats must be sturdy enough to withstand wear and tear during performances, so careful sewing is crucial whether that's by hand or machine.
Embellishing: Depending on the design I might add feathers, ribbons, beads, lace, and other embellishments to give the hat its unique character.

Each hat is designed to serve a specific purpose, whether it’s to accentuate the actor’s movements, draw attention to a particular part of the body, or symbolize a trait of the character.

Various theatrical hats and headpieces created by myself

4. Considering Practical Needs

Theatrical hats are not just about looking good—they also have to function well under the unique conditions of a live performance. I have to consider things like:

Comfort and Fit: Hats must fit properly to ensure the actor can wear them comfortably throughout the performance. This involves knowing how to make adjustments for different head shapes and hair styles including wigs.
Durability: Hats need to withstand multiple performances, costume changes, and the physical demands of acting. Anything I construct must be strong and sturdy using construction techniques to make sure the hats hold up.
Safety: A hat that falls off or causes discomfort during a performance can distract from the production. I have to ensure that the hats and headpieces stay in place, even during vigorous movement or quick costume changes.

5. Creating Fantasy and Spectacle

In productions with fantastical elements—like musicals, operas, or plays with magical themes—hats often go beyond the conventional. Fantasy hats may need to look otherworldly, exaggerated, or symbolic. For instance, in the Leeds Playhouse version of The Wizard of Oz, the Witch’s pointed hat is an iconic symbol of magic and malevolence, while in Wonka, the Willy Wonka's top hat is as whimsical and strange as the character himself.

My job here is to push the boundaries of design, allowing the designers ideas to amplify the story’s fantasy elements and create visually striking moments for the audience.

Skills and Techniques of a Theatrical Milliner

To succeed in this niche and demanding role, a theatrical milliner must possess a variety of skills, both technical and creative. I have spent many years learning techniques which now means I can interpret any design and make just about any style of millinery.

Expert Craftsmanship: To become a successful theatrical milliner you will need a deep understanding of sewing, stitching, and fabric manipulation. I work with felt, leather, straw, wire, thermoplastics, fabrics, plastazote and many other materials.
Creativity: I have to imagine and execute designs whilst keeping in mind comfort and practicalities.
Problem Solving: As a milliner for stage productions I often work with the costume designer, supervisor, costume makers and other team members to figure out how to create a hat that fits both the artistic vision and practical needs of the production.
Attention to Detail: I also have to be precise in my work and create everything to an extremely high standard. Whether it's the exact placement of a feather or ensuring the hat fits properly, every detail counts.

Why Theatrical Milliners Are Essential

Theatrical milliners play a vital role in the storytelling process. Through their carefully crafted headpieces, they help define characters, enhance the visual landscape of a production, and bring the world of the play to life in ways that words alone cannot.

From the whimsical hats of a fantasy world to the historically accurate designs of a period drama, the milliner’s work is integral to how an audience experiences the performance. They are not simply "hat makers"; they are visual storytellers, contributing to the magic of the stage with every stitch, fold, and embellishment.

Conclusion

My work as stage and screen milliner is a blend of art, craftsmanship, and storytelling. From the drawing board to the stage, I create headpieces that elevate the characters they represent, reflect the world of the play, and add a visual layer to the performance. Though I'm very much behind the scenes, my career as a theatrical milliner is essential to the magic of theatre, proving that sometimes, a hat can speak louder than words.

I hope this blog gives you a good understanding of what a theatrical milliner does, it's a wonderful, creative and challenging job and something I absolutely love!